Green Canyon, Manavgat, Turkey

It is a thirty minute drive from my hotel in Side to Green Canyon. From the coach, I take in the sight of the emerald green lake stretching far amongst lush woodlands and surrounded by the Taurus mountain range. The sunlight basks a warm glow, making the water glisten like scattered glitter strewn across the water. 

Built in 1984 on Manavgat River, Oymapinar Dam is the concrete mouth of the Green Canyon. The tour leader explains that the freshwater dam has a 300 million cubic metre capacity and it is the 5^th largest dam in Turkey. Civilisation feels at bay here. Other then the handful of day trip coaches, the setting is incredibly tranquil. A cerulean sky creates a canvas like background, with the canyon waters a glass clear green rippling gently against boats docked within the quay. 

We board the boat and I climb up a short stairway to the upper deck. I watch as speckled fish flip-flop in the crystalline lake beneath us. As the boat disembarks, I feel a deep sense of clarity as I take in my surroundings. I admire the glorious lustre of the water and the earthy scent of the valley surrounding us. 

Lots of fish!

The boat glides through Green Canyon Lake for a couple of hours before eventually stopping at a narrow gangway floating within a designated swimming area. I can’t wait to swim here! We dive straight into the water from the dock and I am momentarily enveloped by coldness. I re-adjust to the water’s temperature and gently tread water, taking in the water's glow and green hillsides rising over us.

After our swim, it’s just a short boat ride to Paradise restaurant by the waterside. Long clothed tables are situated  beneath a trellis of vineleaves. We are served a fresh, crisp salad, trout grilled to perfection and a side of sautéed potatoes. Dappled sunlight beams across the eating area with the backdrop of Green Canyon Lake just a stone throw away. We watch small boats drift in the distance and a group of fishermen at a wooden pier. 

Paradise restaurant

We congregate back onto the boat after lunch, where we embark on our journey back towards the quay. I take a final mental image of the panoramic views of the Taurus Mountains range towering above the green lake, before we board our coach transfer back to our hotel in Side.

Trip Tips

•  I booked my tour with Selale tours in Side, Turkey. The tour operator is located on the main road near to Anatolia Hospital. I paid €35 per person for the day trip.
• The tour included a return hotel transfer (pick up at 8:00am and drop off at approximately 5:30pm), tour guide, the boat trip, lunch at Paradise Restaurant and swimming stops.
• There is a photographer on the boat. At the restaurant, you are presented with an array of readily printed photos, souvenir photo plates and postcards with your picture on. The cost of one photo was €3.

Souvenir Photos 

• You are given a choice of either meat, fish or a vegetarian option at Paradise restaurant. Oranges are served after the meal and drinks are purchased separately.
• If you have any further questions about the Green Canyon Excursion, please feel free to comment here or email me.

The Ugly Side of Tourism

Still bodies the coloured of cooked lobster lined the beach. The wide bank of golden sand was covered with row after row of plastic sun beds. I weave through the maze of sun-worshippers, away from the beach and onto a walkway dotted with countless restaurants, bars and night-clubs. The footpath arcs into a far reaching semi-circle, following the beach ubiquitously surrounded by flashing neon signs and food menus displayed in multiple languages and priced in different currencies. 

There were touting waiters attired in crisp, white shirts and black trousers. “Hello! Where are you from?”. “Free cocktails for you, girls!” “Come join me for dinner”. I walked with purpose; my sole aim was to visit Antik Side, an ancient city situated on a peninsula with a harbour that was once a bustling port during the Roman Era. Submerged in history, Side became a haven for both pirates and slave-traders in 2^nd century BC. Occupied by Alexandra the Great in 333 BC and consequently falling under Egyptian occupation, I couldn’t wait to soak in the ruins and the deep-rooted history in the area.

The evening brought a gentle coolness to the air. Upon reaching the end of the boardwalk, the ruins of the Temple of Apollo bobbed into view. The magnificent white columns rose above Side with the Mediterranean Sea a mere stone throw away. Large chunks of engraved marble stones were scattered by the boardwalk.

 The temple was surrounded by a large mental fence, protecting the historical site yet also detracting from the beauty of it. It came to light that the Turkish authority were now charging for entry as a means of preserving the site. We appreciated the beauty of the site from the outside and continued to make our way from the harbour into main centre of Antik Side. The high street was buzzing with activity; the restaurants filled up with evening trade with the beach crowds descending into town.

With every corner I turned, I felt like I was in an unchanging maze. The same flashing signs advertising day tours, Turkish hammans and cheap alcohol. The shop fronts lined with sunglasses, fridge magnets and t-shirts. 

I pictured Antik Side as a charming harbour brimming with history. There was indeed the Monumental Gate, the City Walls, and the Theatre yet the unprecedented growth in tourism created a sprawl of shops and restaurants surrounding the area. 

There was chart music booming from bars and I felt I couldn’t have a quiet stroll through the centre without being overwhelmed by constant badgering from touts advertising restaurants and souvenirs. 

From an ancient city to a resort town, the boom of tourism has gradually chipped away at the historical character of Side.  The previously free historical ruins have converted to a payable attraction and the harbour is now surrounded by florid hotels instead of landscape. The growth of tourism is a double edged sword, with economic prosperity comes the gradual loss of the local character of an area. I couldn’t help but wonder if I experienced ‘real Turkey’ during my holiday or a watered down version of it.